Knoydart Adventures: Part 3

On our third day exploring Knoydart we decided to join the others on the boat to Camusrory for a hike up Mam Meadail, with a lower level option of missing the Mam and taking the route down through Glen Meadail to Inverie. As we woke on Thursday morning we knew it was going to be another lucky day of Scottish Summer sunshine and couldn’t wait to get out again to explore.

After another beautiful breakfast, this time with Scottish drop scones/mini pancakes on the menu, we picked up our lunch bags and headed off to meet our skipper on the boat. He had attached the dingy on the back as when we arrived at Camursory we had to jump onto it with life jackets and take a short ride to the pier. There was a well-marked path to follow from our drop-off point as we started walking towards the houses at Camursory and up through the glen to the ruined houses at Carnoch.
Although the path was well defined the gradient was quite steep, climbing to almost 2000ft to the col of Mam Meadail. Here the group split, with Nige, Phil and myself choosing the hike up to the summit and over the ridge, and the others taking the more leisurely, downhill walk through Glen Meadail towards Inverie River.
With a little scrambling we reached the top of Mam Meadail and were greeted with spectacular 360 degree views. We took some more panorama shots, sat down to shelter from the wind behind the cairn and enjoyed our lunch, including some delicious banana loaf! Inverie was again in our sights but a long way in the distance and we had some more climbing to do before the descent along the ridge. We set off aiming for two lochs, which we could see and hoped to walk between on our way back to Inverie.

In a similar fashion to the previous days walk, the descent was our downfall. We took many wrong turns trying to follow paths with dead ends and walkers’ muddy footprints left behind, but seemed to be zigzagging and taking the longest, most difficult route. After some guess work and a little too much hopping over hidden bogs we were down at sea level on the outskirts of Inverie. We walked through the village past a number of holiday cottages and locals’ homes to the pub and met up with our fellow walkers who had arrived just before us. It was only right to pop into the pub for a pint, it is Great Britain’s most remote pub after all, and we enjoyed our refreshment sitting outside in the last of the day’s sunshine.

We jumped on the bus with the others, headed back to Doune for dinner and enjoyed another amazing feast, this time with a cheese course after our dessert! After Cullen Skink (a smoked fish, creamy soup), pork with ale and delicious homemade rhubarb ice cream (the fruit picked from the garden!) we were treated to a lovely selection of cheeses, one even made by Liz! Stuffed to the guts we rolled out of the dining room to our little lodges, looking forward to our last full day in Knoydart and the promise of bagging another Munro!


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